THE ADVENTURES OF KOKOY - A TRAVEL GUIDE: PHILIPPINES, JUNE-JULY 2017 PART 5

All photos by Kokoy...

"An island within a lake within an island within a lake within an island in the ocean." That is how Dad describes Taal in your childhood decades ago, your first inkling of the place...

GETTING TO THE FAMOUS LAKE

One of the most iconic images of the Philippines, Lake Taal and its famous volcano are perhaps the most visited tourist attraction outside of the capital. Easily accessible by bus or car, the town of Tagaytay in Cavite, a province adjacent to Metro Manila's southern border, is a popular day trip and has become synonymous with some of the most breathtaking vistas one can imagine.

Views of Taal from Josephine Restaurant (above) and from Balay Dako Terraza (below) in Tagaytay, Cavite. Both restaurants offer not only majestic vistas, but world-class traditional Filipino menus featuring seafood dishes of fish endemic to Taal Lake...

Most tourists, however, seldom venture beyond the numerous mountainside resort villas on the periphery of the lake. It is along the lake's banks that the real Taal unfolds for those seeking a deeper connection to the soul of this caldera, formed by a series of massive volcanic eruptions beginning over 100,000 years ago, eventually closing the inlet by the 18th century a.d. Precipitation gradually converts Taal's waters from salt to fresh, the resulting ecosystem giving rise to unique species endemic to the lake. The surface elevation steadily rises, submerging entire municipalities, prompting some towns to relocate to higher ground and burying others in its depths.

The shoreside Taal Lake Conservation Center maintains comprehensive information about the history, culture, geography, and environment of the waters and surrounding area, and leads efforts to sustain the local economy in the face of rampant development threatening its sensitive socio-ecological balance. Pusod, as the TLCC is referred to, also offers eco-friendly waterfront accommodations to academics and tourists alike, and organizes excursions lead by local guides across the lake to climb and study the volcano up close. From the vantage point of Pusod's veranda and cabanas, Taal is at her most alive, an ethereal being, mysterious and emotional, in constant commune with the people who share in her past and in her destiny.

The Taal Lake Conservation Center is located in the town of Balete in Batangas province, on the eastern bank of the lake. To get there by car, go south on the South Luzon Expressway (SLEX). You can bypass the traffic by getting on the Metro Manila Skyway elevated above the SLEX. There are ramps to get on the Skyway from Buendia Avenue and Epifanio de los Santos Avenue (EDSA). It is best to bring small change for the series of tolls on the way, a total of P268. The Skyway takes you through Laguna province, and becomes the Southern Tagalog Arterial Road (STAR) Tollway after you pass the provincial border into Batangas. The southward drive offers some views of Laguna de Bay, the largest lake in Luzon, and Mounts Makiling and Banahaw (3576 and 7119 feet respectively), two storied peaks in Philippine folklore. You can stop for refreshments or gas at one of the roadside convenience strips, which offer a wide assortment of fast-food choices, from American spots like Starbucks, McDonald's and Kentucky Fried Chicken to Pinoy eateries like Jollibee, Binalot and Chow King.

Keep an eye out for the Balete exit and turn right after the toll pay station. Proceed cautiously down the narrow winding Leviste Highway, flanked by residences, sari-sari stores, and homemade honey stands. It is imperative that you make sure your vehicle's brakes are in good working order before you begin the descent towards the lake. Watch for animals like dogs, cats, chickens, and goats. Since there are no sidewalks, expect throngs of pedestrians - farmers carrying loads of produce waiting for the next jeepney, countless schoolchildren on their way to or from school, domestic helpers going to market, and coconut harvesters on horseback. Speed bumps and speed barriers help to prevent reckless unsafe driving by private vehicles, jeepneys and tricycles. Do not allow your eyes to be lured off the road by the mesmerizing views of the lake as you wind around some tight curves.

MARIAN ORCHARD

Get on the road early enough in the day to allow time to stop at Marian Orchard, a Catholic retreat nestled on the lake side of Leviste Highway. Find sprawled within its grounds chapels and shrines and fountains, among gardens of lush blooming rain forest vegetation, cobblestone paths leading to a serenity that compels meditative contemplation for those on a pilgrimage.

The lush tropical vegetation of Marian Orchard is the perfect setting for a depiction of the Agony in the Garden...

This Catholic oasis also contains numerous unattributed works of art.

As you climb the pilgrimage tower, take in the view from each level...

At the top of the pilgrimage tower, Marian Orchard's highest point, you are rewarded with an inspiring view of your destination.

After your Marian Orchard meditation, continue driving cautiously down Leviste Highway. Be especially careful as you approach the busy T intersection at the bottom of the hill, the site of a recent tragedy when a cargo truck's brakes failed and barreled into a sari-sari storefront. You are now in the center of town. Stop and turn left. The road narrows even more and runs parallel to the coastline. Taal Lake Conservation Center is on the right side immediately past the steel bridge.

Arriving around midday, be first amazed by the stillness of Taal's surface, the flora, fauna, and humanity thriving together in harmony.

TRANQUILITY

FLORA

HUMAN ACTIVITY

Handconstructed bamboo stilts provide comfortable perches for local fisherfolk...

Traditional methods of processing food have been developed over centuries, utilizing natural means of preservation without artificial ingredients harmful to the diet and the ecosystem, at no cost to local fisherfolk. Tawilis, a species of sardine endemic to Taal, dry in the sun, being readied for market. Tawilis is the only fresh-water sardine in the world...

WORLD-CLASS LUNCH AT PUSOD

Order lunch from Ka Betty, and be treated to a world-class traditional Filipino meal made from ingredients harvested straight from the lake and its symbiotic environs - kangkong, coconut and papaya growing in the wild, tawilis caught by local fisherfolk, and fresh lemongrass tea. The food is so good, it is hard to stop eating.

Everything you have always wanted to know about Taal - its lake, volcano, community, geology, geography, economy, ecology, and history - can be shared with you at Pusod by local experts.

When getting ready for lunch, choose from the available lakeside tables...

...romantic cabañas which provide shade...

...and a long table for larger groups. This cabaña functions as both dining area and storage for the skiff.

Pusod also leads the local community in the design and construction of cost-cutting innovations, such as this rainwater gathering system installed on the roof. The water harvested is used for cooking, washing, and other basic needs.

Pusod's rocket oven and rocket stove are simple but highly efficient designs made from local materials, using natural wood fuel.

Be sure to compliment Ka Betty and her family of world-class chefs. The food is so good, it is hard to stop eating.

LIFE ON THE BANK OF LAKE TAAL

Walk off the huge lunch with an excursion to town. Exit the TLCC gate and turn left. Witness what daily life is like in a quiet little town on the bank of Lake Taal.

Your first stop is the tiny Sitio Lepote Chapel to your right. Give thanks for your safe journey, Ka Betty and the glorious meals she prepares for visitors, and this local community working hard to preserve one of God's most beautiful creations on the face of the planet.

As you cross the steel bridge, you are greeted by schoolchildren strolling either home or to class...

From the steel bridge, you can watch local men wash clothes and do some bangka maintenance...

The Palsara Barangay Council's vision is posted on the concrete bridge, expressing hopes for a hard-working, free, and peaceful community which protects the environment...

In the public park, high school students rehearse their dance for an upcoming presentation...

Be advised that if you are walking with two beautiful Filipina women, be prepared for some long gazes by male workers you happen to pass along the side of Leviste Highway.

The community basketball court is always busy with pick-up games. A mural adorns the exterior wall depicting various sports, including soccer, which you have yet to see being played in this area in all of your visits through the years...

What was once a jeepney terminal at the mouth of the Balete public market now appears to be a tricycle terminal...

The local public market is located just past the T intersection of Leviste Highway. Small shops line the short strip leading to the water, selling all sorts of daily goods, including housewares, snacks, and toys. Fresh fish, meat, vegetables and fruit are available in the wet section of the market, open only in the mornings or until sold out...

The local merchants combine business with daily chores, such as laundry and monitoring livestock...

One of your favorite barber shops in the world is City Barbers, located towards the far end of the strip. For P50, you can get one of the best haircuts possible to man...

A shave costs another P40. Kuya Melvin does it with a razor blade and a very steady hand...

This is a very happy repeat customer at City Barbers in Balete public market...

CHECKING INTO KAPUSOD

For sleeping accommodations, find next door to Pusod the best options to choose from anywhere around the lake. Kapusod is a very popular destination for adventurers, poets, artists, filmmakers, tourists, students, teachers from all over the world. It is advisable to book as far in advance as you can.

Lakeview cabañas are ideal during the day for napping, lounging or catching up on your summer reading project...

By night, the cabaña is converted into a lakeside room, with a comfortable cushion atop the bamboo slats big enough for three, wrapped by a mosquito net, and powered by solar batteries for light and device-charging...

The earth dome next to the water garden in the back is also ideal for a group of three. Made by local builders, it features a design that keeps the interior relatively cool in the tropical heat...

The gem of Kapusod is the treehouse. Designed and built by local artisan Nato, the treehouse is made almost entirely of bamboo. Solidly integrating nature's own structure, the tree, this one-room elevated bungalow provides one of the most romantic and unique accommodations on the planet...

A functioning shower beneath the main structure with bamboo pipes...

Watch your step...

The view from the ledge on the way up overlooks the field where many of the ingredients used by Ka Betty for your meals grow in the wild...

The single room has a comfortable queen-size cushion that lies on the bamboo-slat floor and enwrapped in a mosquito net. The foldable table is ideal for writers.

The treehouse is solar-powered, more than sufficient for the ceiling light and an outlet for charging multiple devices.

You can sit up here for hours being inspired by the view.

ON THE WATER

Pusod has kayaks for rent, as well as a balsa, the traditional bamboo raft, a design used by locals since time immemorial.

A balsa can easily take on one person...

Photo by Howie.

...or three rowers comfortably...

...or even more for a raucous time with cousins.

After an afternoon of rowing, it's a good time to take a dip in the water garden. The pool uses a multi-layer underground system of natural filtration. Because it is unchlorinated, a quick shower is required to rinse off any foreign particles before entering the pool.

If you look closely, you can see the resident minnows...

The pool's depth is perfect for five-year-old kids...

...or 17-year-old kids...

...and for the 21-and-up kids, Kalinga Kolsch, hand-crafted in the Philippines, perfect for a midday dip in the water garden after a rowing excursion on Lake Taal...

After dipping in the natural pool, take a shower in the Balinese style open-air private bathroom.

SUNSET ON TAAL

Whatever you happen to be doing, drop it and sit down for one of the most awe-inspiring galactic displays you have ever seen - sunset on Lake Taal. For countless millennia, this daily gift has fed humanity's vision, spirit, and soul.

By the time it is over, you agree that no words can justly describe it and the way it makes you feel.

Contemplate the sunset that you have just witnessed over dinner - another indescribable meal prepared by Ka Betty.

As the moon rises over Lake Taal, peel the balut (boiled duck foetus) that you brought earlier from the Balete public market. It is the perfect delicacy to watch the lightning flashes beyond the horizon somewhere behind Tagaytay.