PHILIPPINES, JUNE-JULY 2017 PART 4 - A PHILIPPINE FOOTBALL FEDERATION WOMEN'S LEAGUE MATCH

All photos by Kokoy.

In this edition, we take in a significant women's football match at an historic venue...

WALKING TO RIZAL MEMORIAL STADIUM

The devoted Philippine football enthusiast would love Legaspi Tower's location - just a three-block walk east on Pablo Ocampo to the historic Rizal Memorial Sports Complex. Inaugurated with much fanfare just in time for the 1934 Far Eastern Championship Games hosted by Manila, the Rizal Memorial Sports Complex was destroyed in World War II and rebuilt for the 1954 Asian Games. The RMSC is currently headquarters to some of the country's Olympic programs, such as tae kwon-do, tennis, and track-and-field. The centerpiece of the complex is the stadium, which has seen better days, one of which boasts having hosted the largest audience ever to watch the Beatles in a single day. On July 4, 1966, a total of 80,000 spectators massed at Rizal Memorial to see two sold-out shows, the infamously chaotic final performances outside North America of the greatest rock-and-roll band in history.

In recent decades however, Rizal Memorial Stadium has been in a state of stagnation at best. There have been no visible significant improvements on the decaying facility since the 1950's it seems, other than refurbished lighting fixtures and installation of an artificial surface on the football field with the advent of the top-division United Football League several years ago. Indeed, the entire grounds was on the verge of demolition to make space for business properties until just this past April when, amidst popular protests lead by the football-watching community, the National Historical Commission of the Philippines declared it a National Historical Landmark ensuring its survival for generations to come.

Get up early in the morning if you want to catch the first Philippine Football Federation Women's League (PFFWL) match of the day, which kicks off at 8:00 am. The second match at 10:30 seems more doable. When you exit the main door of Legaspi Tower, turn left to find the coconut vendor with his homemade wooden cart, chopping block, and bolo knife. Pick up a cup of refreshing cold buko juice for P10, with strands of freshly scraped coconut floating in the bottom of the cup. Then, turn around to go east on Pablo Ocampo. Do not ever expect a tranquil stroll in the heart of Manila. Roxas Boulevard at Pablo Ocampo, commonly referred to as Vito Cruz, is one of the busiest intersections in the city. It is imperative to be alert and cautious, as the walk down Vito Cruz presents an assortment of hazards. Be always aware that you are now immersed in one of the most congested cities in the world, where poverty is inescapable. You have to skirt around motorcycles parked on the sidewalk, step over puddles of toxic grimy water, and pass stray dogs hanging around the snack stands. Avoid the oncoming tricycles heading contraflow - motorcycles with attached sidecars that carry passengers for a fee, one of the multitudes of public transportation options in the Philippines. (We take many a tricycle ride later in this edition.) Occupied by vendors with sari-sari carts selling candy, cigarettes by the stick, and sachets of shampoo, among other conveniences, the sidewalk disappears somewhere in the middle of the block after you pass the mouth of the Legaspi Tower parking garage entrance.

You can either cut through Harrison Plaza Mall, the oldest indoor shopping mall in the city, or keep walking on Vito Cruz and turn left on Adriatico Street. Crossing streets in Manila can be particularly dangerous if you are not familiar with its traffic patterns. "Never assume anything" is a good general rule to live by, and we mean live by. Just because the light is red, don't assume that traffic will stop. Many times, it is safer to cross in the middle of the block where you can see the traffic stopped than at the crosswalk where you are not exactly sure which way vehicles will be turning. Once you have begun crossing, hurry to the other side and never turn back, because drivers are assuming that you will continue crossing and will steer around your rear. Crossing streets in Manila is often compared to the old Frogger video game from the 1990s where the player controls their frog avatar on a busy road. The frog hops from lane to lane to avoid the traffic, stopping, going sideways, continuing again and again until it reaches the other side. In Manila however, the frog must not hop backwards. Another general rule of thumb in Manila is the larger vehicle has the right of way, the injustice of it notwithstanding. Pedestrian is expected to yield to bicycle, bicycle yields to motorcycle, motorcycle to car, car to bus, bus to 18-wheeler and so on (you may find variations of this in the countryside where there are horses, carabao-drawn carts, ploughs and the like). Don't ever expect them to stop just to let you cross. You will not likely be intentionally run over, but do expect to be honked at every now and then as a courtesy warning that you are about to be.

Enclosed within high walls, the entrance to the heavily fortified Rizal Memorial Sports Complex is at the far end of the stadium. Step through the outer security gate and proceed through the narrow stadium entrance. Philippine Football Federation Women's League matches are free of charge. There is no perfect view of the pitch from the grandstand, one of the frustrations at Rizal Memorial Stadium. You have to sit up in the higher seats in order to see the entire near sideline over the team bench awnings. The seldom-used track encircling the pitch puts unnecessary distance between the fans and the action. Despite its drawbacks, witnessing a soccer match at a classic stadium rife with history is a unique and valuable experience, especially a match as significant as this one.

ATENEO DE MANILA UNIVERSITY LADY BLUE EAGLES vs FUEGO ESPAÑA

In its inaugural season, the Philippine Football Federation Women's League began just months ago with a field of clubs and college squads, including powerhouses of the University Athletic Association of the Philippines, a welcome addition to the growing repertoire of programs bolstering the development of the nation's soccer movement. Philippine soccer is in the midst of a renaissance in the early 21st century with the rebirth of the national team from a long era of darkness. (A summary of the Philippine football renaissance can be found in this edition of Kokoy's Women's College Soccer Blog CHRISTIANE CORDERO: ECU'S PINAY KEEPER CONQUERS HOUSTON.)

Unlike the United States interscholastic system, Philippine universities seem at this stage more developmentally advanced than club soccer. College teams dominate the top half of the PFFWL standings. Ateneo de Manila University's current lineup includes one of this blog's favorite college players in the world, midfielder Cam Rodriguez, who earned her first cap for the Philippine national team at just 14 years old, scoring her first international goal at 16 against Malaysia. The Ateneo Lady Blue Eagles dominate Fuego España 2-0. A surprise revelation to this blog is the performance of center back Annika Gabrielle Ong, anchoring a defensive backfield that effectively defuses España's counter-attacking forays. Rodriguez proves to be a key through which Ateneo's offensive scheme passes. Both her and Ong earn spots in the 2017 All-Kokoy XI selection.

Ateneo's Cam Rodriguez (7) finds herself one-on-one with Fuego España goalkeeper Diana Redondo...

...settles the ball...

...glances at the target to survey her options...

...finds herself unmarked against a perfectly positioned Diana...

...smacks a left-footed screamer at near post, as the España defense scrambles back...

...forcing a magnificent save.

With her terrific defensive work in this match, Annika Gabrielle Ong earns a spot in the 2017 All-Kokoy XI.

Despite the lopsided match, the PFFWL conveys great promise for the future of Philippine women's football. Competitive opportunities beyond the collegiate level is necessary if the national team is to consistently produce respectable results. However, a professional league is only the tip of the developmental iceberg. A comprehensive youth system must be in place in order to continue raising the standards of play and sustain the league. Such a youth development system must integrate all socio-economic classes; it cannot focus solely on scouting and developing players from exclusive private schools such as Ateneo and La Salle. Football must be cultivated and supported in the public school system and in the barangay. Youth coaches must be trained and supported in the poor neighborhoods, especially in squatter communities where the need for programming is greatest and the drive to escape poverty is unquenchable. There are already a cadre of coaches out there working with our marginalized youth. One such dedicated mentor is Coach Leah Bontilao, who has been working with young girls in impoverished communities around the New Bilibid national penitentiary in the southern Manila borough of Muntinlupa. Such coaches are in constant need of material support and recognition for their work. If you would like to learn how to donate gear, please send Kokoy a message through our Facebook page Football is for the People.

It is unclear when the Rizal Memorial Stadium clock stopped, but it has been 12:25 since our first time witnessing a match there in 2011.

We continue to look forward to improvements to the Rizal Memorial Stadium scoreboard. 

Post-match smiles all around, this is the way all soccer matches should end. In its inaugural season, PFFWL players know that they are doing ground-breaking work, laying the foundations for future generations of Pinay booters. Their solidarity tells it all.

To view all photos in Kokoy's documentation of this match, please click July 1, 2017 Ateneo de Manila University Blue Eagles 2, Fuego España 0 @ Rizal Memorial Stadium, Manila, Philippines.

Next: PART 5 - TAAL LAKE BECKONS

"Life is not a journey, but a pilgrimage..."

- Kokoy Severino has been in a constant state of travel since he was four years old.

 (Saturday July 1)

PHILIPPINES JUNE-JULY 2017 PART 3 - ARRIVAL IN MANILA

All photos by Kokoy.

In this edition, our guide takes us through the experience of arriving in the city of our birth.

DEPARTURE FROM TAOYUAN

AND ARRIVAL IN MANILA

Even though the flight from Tao Yuan to Ninoy Aquino International Airport is just a quick southbound jaunt from one Pacific rim island to another, EVA Airways manages to squeeze a meal in, enough to tide you over until you get into the city. The first glimpses of your homeland are the tiny flickering dots floating in the darkened void of the planet's surface, the lonely lights of fishermen's boats in the Luzon Strait catching what may conceivably end up on your plate in the coming weeks. As it descends towards the runway, the window seat of the Airbus Jet 321 offers a spectacular view of Metro Manila, a sprawling megalopolis lit up with contradictions.

Once you have gone through customs, pick up a free cart on the left side of the baggage claim belts. As the airport terminal's glass doors slide open, the muggy heat hits you like a wall as you wheel your nearly 100 pounds of luggage towards the taxi cab station. Take a deep breath of Manila's unique stench, a cocktail of diesel exhaust fumes, burning trash, and your own sweat. It is the unmistakable aroma of home. 

From the airport, it is strongly suggested that those traveling alone, especially women, use the yellow official government-accredited taxi service. If you do not care to use one of the city's ride-sharing companies like Uber or Grab, this is the safest bet from the airport. The yellow cabs have a higher level of accountability and supervision than the independent white taxis. The car number is recorded by the dispatcher on site, as well as the names of the driver and passenger, and the destination. Furthermore, the official yellow cabs are strictly metered, its drivers forbidden to negotiate their fares up, which is usually what those of the independent white taxi cabs do to try and take advantage of foreign travelers who may not know better. The seasoned traveler that you are, you come prepared with Philippine pesos which you saved in your wallet from your previous trip so that you do not have to bother exchanging your dollars at the airport, knowing you can get a higher rate elsewhere.

The relatively light traffic en route from the airport through normally some of the most packed streets of Manila surprises you. It takes 20 minutes and less than 200 pesos to get from the airport to Legaspi Towers at the corner of Roxas Boulevard and Pablo Ocampo, or commonly known as Vito Cruz. Tip the driver about 20 pesos or less.

Waiting in the lobby for you is the most beautiful woman in the world. She rushes up to the cab as you unload your bags and throws her arms around you. You both cannot contain your laughter. Her younger sister, whom some claim is just as beautiful, is all smiles as she helps the security guard lift your bags up the driveway steps and onto the building's loaner cart. 

As the security personnel welcomes you respectfully, greet them with a smile, genuinely happy to see them. Push the cart across the intricately laid tile floor of the cavernous Legaspi Tower lobby to the elevator. There is no joy equal to that of being among loved ones. Now, your journey has finally truly begun.

NEXT: PART 4 - A PHILIPPINE FOOTBALL FEDERATION WOMEN'S LEAGUE MATCH

"Life is not a journey, but a pilgrimage..."

- Kokoy Severino has been in a constant state of travel since he was four years old.

(Friday June 30)

PHILIPPINES, JUNE-JULY 2017 PART 2 - LAX TO TAO YUAN

All photos by Kokoy

On his way to the Philippines, our guide explores Tao Yuan International Airport on a stopover, and explains some of the many reasons why this is one of your favorite airports in the world.

ARRIVAL IN AND DEPARTURE 

FROM LAX AND TAO YUAN

It would not be surprising that you rate Los Angeles International Airport to be the second worst airport you have ever been to in the world. In numerous arrivals and departures through LAX over the years, you cannot recall a single non-negative experience there. Upon arrival, your connecting flight is still unlisted on the departures monitor. Wander around in search of someone to inquire with, follow the clues and you eventually come across the United Airlines Transit Desk. An agent hands you a slip of paper with confusing directions as he points you in the general direction where to go. You get lost anyway. 

By the time you arrive at the Tom Bradley International Terminal, you are fairly tired and frustrated. Sit and relax in James' Beach between gates 133 and 131, even after the waitstaff's dismissive attitude towards your request to tune their television on the Confederations Cup semi-final, a colossal matchup between Mexico and Germany. By halftime, the airport monitors have yet to display the gate information for your flight. Websites such as FLIGHTSTATS are integral for your transit through LAX. 

For long overnight flights such as Los Angeles to Taipei, an aisle seat is recommended. Not only does it allow you more space, it is also easier to get up and stretch or use the restroom. Whatever frustration you experience going through LAX is soon forgotten, as EVA Airways makes things as pleasant as possible on the plane, from the terrific service by polite, respectful, and helpful flight attendants to the excellent gourmet meals (as far as airline food is concerned), to the entertainment system offering films and music from all over the world, including newly released movies as well as classics. Its safety, service, food, and entertainment system together make EVA Airways one of this blog's top-rated airlines. EVA makes up for the United Airlines leg of your trip. 

In this edition of your own personal in-flight film festival, watch Get Out. The directorial debut of Jordan Peele presents the issue of racism through the medium of horror. While this landmark film is a must-see, it is not recommended for viewing over lunch, the main entree of which is braised chicken with sundried tomato sauce.

After a short nap and a snack, continue your personal film festival with the 2013 Ilo Ilo, about the relationship between a young Singaporean child with a few behavioral issues and his family's new Filipina maid whose main responsibility in the household is his care. This first film by Anthony Chen explores the complex lives of overseas Filipino workers (OFWs), often forced by economic conditions to take jobs in foreign countries where they are not always treated equally and are often looked down upon, despite their hard work and loyalty to their employers. The winner of numerous awards at film festivals around the world, including the Camera D'Or at Cannes, Ilo Ilo features a powerful performance by Koh Jia Ler, who plays Jia Le the young boy. But it is the portrayal of Jia Le's nanny by accomplished actor Angeli Bayani which makes this film unforgettable, and further deepens your contemplation of the plight of the Filipino poor. 

A couple of hours before landing in Taiwan, savor the traditional Chinese breakfast of congee. In the absence of fresh lime and soy sauce (the way a Filipino would eat it), sprinkle some of the shredded sailfish on top to add a soft salty texture. 

After the terrible hosting by LAX, find Tao Yuan International one of the most welcoming airports you ever encounter. Despite being one of the busiest hubs in Asia, Tao Yuan is comfortably easy to get around. Indeed Tao Yuan should be a model airport for cities around the world, and if you have time to explore, many surprises await you...

After going through security, to catch up on your meditation and give thanks, make a beeline to the prayer room located by gate C1... 

Next door to the Christian prayer room is the Muslim prayer room...

...and there is also the Hindu prayer room.

After praying, get a free drink at any of the many purified water stations in the terminal. You can even adjust the water temperature...

The gates at Tao Yuan are furnished for relaxation. Each is designed with a different theme. Gate C2 for example, exhibits a study of Taiwanese aviation history...

....Gate C3's theme is quite obvious, complete with a playscape for young passengers to run, climb around and expend energy before a flight...

...C4 is the Taiwanese Ceremonial Lounge, where you can read about the ancient customs of the indigenous cultures on the island...

...There is a mini movie theater at gate C8 featuring Taiwanese cinema and its rich history. The seats at this gate remind you of the most modern movie theaters in America...

...You can even sit down for a free tea-tasting at gate C6...

The absolute favorite gate of this blog in Tao Yuan International Airport is C7, the post office gate, where passengers can pick up free post cards and manually post mark them themselves. Stamps can be bought at the Information Desk easily accessible at the concourse intersection, and where real live attendants take all sorts of questions, from flight times to foreign exchange rates.

You can work up quite an appetite exploring Tao Yuan International Airport Terminal C. For NT$250 (about US$8.33), the No. 1 Noodle with Braised Beef at Great Food Town in the food court between gates 4 and 5 is the perfect meal between flights.

After stamping and dropping off post cards at the information desk, be surprised to hear your name called as you make your way to your designated gate of departure. Turn around to see a former colleague with whom you worked for a year teaching refugee students at Las Americas Middle School in Houston. She moved to Taiwan to teach after her stint at Las Americas and is now on her way back to Houston. After a brief exchange of updates filled with utter disbelief at what seems such a random encounter, you each head towards your respective gates. Through a lifetime of traveling, you have learned that such serendipity is not without purpose.

Part of what makes it so easy to get around Tao Yuan International Airport is the extensive network of automated walkways spanning the entire concourse, wide enough for two lanes of free baggage carts.

The shuttle taking you from the Hello Kitty gate C3 across the tarmac to the plane is packed with passengers. As you leave Tao Yuan, you cannot help but smile in anticipation of what lies ahead as your journey unfolds...

Next: PART 3 - ARRIVAL IN MANILA 

"Life is not a journey, but a pilgrimage..."

- Kokoy Severino has been in a constant state of travel since he was four years old.

(Thursday-Friday June 29-30)